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You can sublimate on metal, but only on metal with a polyester coating. Sublimation-ready aluminum signs, photo panels, ornaments, keychains and license plates come pre-coated; bare metal doesn't hold the dye. Unisub presses its coated aluminum at 385°F (195°C), with times from about 30 seconds for thin tags to roughly 1½ minutes for large panels. Remove any protective film, press with even pressure, and let the metal cool flat.
Metal gives the sharpest, glossiest sublimation results of any blank, which is why photo panels sell well. It's also less forgiving than fabric, so the details below matter.
What you need
- Sublimation-coated metal blanks, usually aluminum, with the coated side marked or filmed.
- A sublimation print, mirrored, on sublimation paper.
- A flat heat press that holds an even temperature and pressure across the blank.
- Butcher paper for above and below the blank, plus heat-resistant tape.
- Heat-resistant gloves. Metal stays hot, and thin pieces are easy to drop.
- A lint-free cloth for wiping the coating before pressing.
- A level, heat-safe surface for cooling.
Metal products that sell
Metal covers a wide range of products from the same press and paper: photo panels and wall signs, house number and address plaques, license plates, dog tags and pet ID tags, keychains, ornaments, bookmarks, business cards and trophy inserts. Small items can be gang-printed on one sheet, which keeps cost per piece low, and large panels carry the highest perceived value.
Which metal blanks can you sublimate?
| Metal blank | Works? | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Sublimation-coated aluminum (white gloss, white matte) | Yes | True colors; whites show as white |
| Coated silver, gold or clear aluminum | Yes | White areas show the metal finish |
| Sublimation stainless tumblers and bottles | Yes | Need a tumbler press or oven |
| Raw aluminum or steel | No | Coat it with a sublimation coating first |
| Painted or powder-coated metal not made for sublimation | No | The finish isn't polyester |
If you want to try uncoated metal, a hard-surface sublimation coating spray can work, but expect more variation than factory-coated blanks.
Metal sublimation time and temp
Unisub, one of the largest hard-blank makers, publishes times for its aluminum at 385°F (195°C). It built the chart on a Geo Knight 20 x 24-inch swing-away press at 60 PSI and notes that presses vary.
| Unisub aluminum blank | Thickness | Time at 385°F |
|---|---|---|
| Trophy disk inserts | 0.03 in | 0:30–0:40 |
| Pet tags, 1-sided | 0.045 in | 0:35–0:45 |
| Key chains, 1-sided | 0.03 in | 0:40–0:50 |
| Ornaments, 1-sided | 0.03 in | 0:40–0:50 |
| Metal panels, 4 x 4 to 6 x 6 in | 0.045 in | 1:00–1:10 |
| Metal panels, 8 x 8 to 11 x 14 in | 0.045 in | 1:20–1:35 |
| License plates | 0.03 in | 1:15–1:20 |
Geo Knight's press manuals give a general setting for metals of 400°F (204°C) for 1 minute. Use your blank maker's settings when they publish them, and press one test piece per new blank type. Our sublimation temperature chart has the full Unisub table, including wood and hardboard.
Two patterns stand out: bigger panels need more time even at the same thickness, because the metal pulls heat away from the platen; and thin, small pieces need very little.
How to sublimate on metal, step by step
- Preheat the press to the blank maker's temperature (385°F for Unisub aluminum).
- Peel off the protective film. Many metal blanks ship with a clear film over the coated side. Pressing over it ruins the print.
- Wipe the surface with a lint-free cloth so dust doesn't leave specks. Handle by the edges; fingerprints show.
- Print a mirrored design with a little bleed past the edges, and trim it.
- Set up the layers. A common hard-substrate setup is: butcher paper on the lower platen, the print face up, the metal blank face down on the print, then butcher paper on top. Some makers tape the print face down on the blank instead. Follow your blank's instructions, and tape the print so it can't move.
- Set even, medium pressure. Close the press and check it clamps the whole blank evenly.
- Press for the blank's time.
- Open and remove with heat-resistant gloves. Peel the paper right away.
- Cool flat on a level, heat-safe surface. Don't stand a hot panel on its edge.
White, silver and gold blanks
Sublimation has no white ink. Anything white in your design is simply unprinted, so it shows whatever is underneath:
- White-coated aluminum: whites look white, and colors are true.
- Silver or clear-coated aluminum: whites become bare brushed or polished metal, which gives a metallic, see-through look.
- Gold-coated aluminum: whites show gold, and all colors take on a warm tint.
Choose white blanks for photos and logos with white elements. Use silver and gold for designs meant to shine through.
Choosing a press for metal
Flat metal needs a flat press with even pressure across the whole blank:
- Clamshell or auto press: fine for thin keychains, tags, ornaments and small panels.
- Swing-away press: better for large panels and photo slates, because the platen comes straight down and nothing hot hangs over you while you lay out the blank. Our swing-away heat press guide covers the options.
- Handheld press: workable for small pieces, but hard to keep even on large panels.
Pressure matters more on metal than on fabric. Too little gives faded patches; too much on a thin sheet can mark or warp it. Our heat press pressure guide explains how to set it.
Double-sided ornaments and keychains
Many aluminum ornaments and keychains are coated on both sides. Press one side, let it cool, then press the other side with fresh butcher paper. Put a clean sheet under the finished side so it doesn't pick up stray dye. Bulk packs of 3-inch round double-sided aluminum ornaments are a popular seasonal blank; see our sublimation ornaments guide for more.
Troubleshooting metal prints
| Problem | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Print didn't transfer, or looks cloudy | Protective film left on | Remove the film before pressing |
| Faded patches | Uneven pressure or cool platen zone | Check press evenness; adjust pressure |
| Warped or bowed panel | Uneven heat or cooling, uneven pressure | Even pressure; cool flat on a level surface |
| Ghosting | Print shifted when the press opened | Tape more sides; lift straight up |
| Specks | Dust or fibers on the coating | Wipe with a lint-free cloth |
| Scratches | Handling before the coating cools | Let it cool; handle by edges with gloves |
Common mistakes
- Pressing raw metal. It must have a sublimation coating.
- Forgetting the protective film. The most common metal failure.
- Using fabric times. Large panels need more time than shirts.
- Cooling panels on edge. Hot aluminum bends easily.
- Expecting white ink. Plan designs around the blank's base color.
FAQ
Can you sublimate on any metal?
No. Sublimation dye bonds to a polyester coating, not to bare metal, so you need metal blanks made for sublimation, usually coated aluminum, or you apply a sublimation coating yourself. Raw aluminum or steel won't hold the design.
What temperature and time do you sublimate metal?
Unisub presses its coated aluminum at 385°F (195°C), with times that depend on size and thickness: about 30–50 seconds for thin keychains, tags and ornaments, 1:00–1:10 for 4 x 4 to 6 x 6-inch panels, 1:20–1:35 for 8 x 8 to 11 x 14-inch panels and 1:15–1:20 for license plates. Geo Knight's press manuals list metals at 400°F for 1 minute.
Do you put metal sublimation blanks face up or face down?
Many hard-substrate makers have you place the print face up on the lower platen and lay the metal blank face down on top of it, with butcher paper above and below. Others tape the print to the blank face up. Follow your blank maker's directions.
Why are the white areas of my metal print silver?
Sublimation has no white ink. On white-coated aluminum, white areas show the white coating; on silver, gold or clear-coated aluminum, they show the bare metal finish. Choose white blanks when you need true whites.
Why does my sublimated metal sign warp?
Thin aluminum bows when it's heated or cooled unevenly, or pressed with uneven pressure. Use even, medium pressure, keep the press closed for the full time, and let the panel cool flat on a level surface rather than standing it up while hot.
Next steps
Start with small white-coated aluminum pieces, such as keychains or ornaments, at the maker's settings, then move up to panels once your press is dialed in. For other hard blanks worth stocking, see our sublimation blanks guide.